To remove the the clutch bolts you need to lock the flywheel from moving. Wedge a large flat tipped screwdriver into the right side, between a flywheel tooth and the case, it hold the Flywheel from turning.

• A. Remove three bolts and replace with three new bolts with a nut and washer. The bolts should be a 8mm/1.00 thread. Remove every other bolt, three total, and replace them with the longer ones. The longer ones should be at least two inches long and fully threaded 8 mm/1.00 mm thread. They are fine threads. The nut and washer is for backing off on the spring pressure.
  The bolts are hard to find, but I located them at an ACE hardware store.

• B. Removing remaining three original bolts.

• C. Slowly back out nuts but hold the bolt that it's on still. Back out a nut, one thread at a time, and then go on to the next one. Continue until the spring pressure is fully released and the whole clutch assembly is loose.

• D. Remove remaining three new bolts.

Lay your stuff out in the order you took it out! very important! you will not know you screwed this up until you got the bike back together. On 1981 airheads models on the white paint marks on the flywheel, pressure plate and cover plate are suppose to be aligned at approximately 120 degrees(a triangle) from each other so as to evenly distribute the spinning weight. My bike doesn't have any paint marks, nor will any slash5 bike. So put them back in the right order and everything should be fine.
The parts come out in the order of

• 1. Backing plate
• 2. Clutch plate
• 3. Diaphragm plate
• 4. Spring

• A. Before pulling the Flywheel mark the Flywheel and Crank end so you can line them up later. This is a must for your timing marks to be correct when you are done.

• B. Once again use your large flat tipped screwdriver on the right side of case to wedge the flywheel and remove bolts.

• C. Put your three new puller bolts in and use a wrench to grip the nut. Use a 5 pound hammer to counter-hit the wrench to pop the flywheel off. It should work like a small "see-saw". It's a gentle hit. no banging please.

Use a bent nose pliers or your tire iron in your tool kit to pull main seals. Block the front of the crank so it can't slide forward when you pry out the old seal. This can cause major problems if the shim at the rear falls off in the process. Caution, do not damage the flywheel surface where the seal rides and where the shim rubs.